Plain Sleeve

plain sleeve

1.Plain Sleeve.As per fashion picture, this plain and simple sleeve is prepared without fullness, gathers or pleats at the top (ie shoulder) as well as bottom which is finished with inside turning.
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Instruction for Drafting

unfolded draft

Square lines from 0, fold at 2-0 1-0= one eight chest plus 6.5 cm (2 inch)
2-0 = Sleeve length plus 1 cm (1/4 inch)
3-2 = same as 1 to 0.
Join 3-1 4-1 = one eight chest.
5-0 = 2.5 cm (1 inch ).
Join 4-5. 6 is midway 4 to 5.
Shape back side 4-7-5-0 as shown.
Square up from 4 to 8. 8-4 = 5 cm (2 inches) for ladies and 4 cm ( 1 inches) for girl garments.
Join 8-5 Taking 1cm (1/4 inch) above point 4 shape front side 4-8-9-0 as shown.
10-2 = half sleeve round plus 1.5 cm (1/2 inch).
Join and shape 4-10 keep 3 cm (1 inch ) inturns at 10-2 The unfolded sleeve will look like fig 2.

2. Plain sleeve for a shirt blouse
Like gents shirt, shirt blouse is some what loose at the chest and biceps.
To accommodate this, make the following charges in the diagram of plain sleeve given above.
1-0 = one fourth chest less 1.5 cm (1/2 inch).
10-3 = 1.5 cm (1/2 inch). Join 10-4 by a straight line.

3. Roll up Plain sleeve
unfolded draft Asper fashion, the sleeve bottoms are prepared with pt ups (i.e permanent turn ups) like pants . This sleeve is drafted like plain sleeve with only following additions.12-2 and 13-3 = each 2.5 cm (1 inch), width of p.t upsunfolded draft
Join 13-12 Draw two parallel lines outside 13-12 the first at a distance of 2.5 cm (1 inch) and second at the distance of 4.25 cm ( 1 inch). Fig 2 shows the unfolded sleeve, with inlays shown by cross lines. When stitching, take a fold on line 13-12 and the finished fold will come on line 10-2. unfolded draft

4. Plain sleeve with separate inturns
sleeve cut draft To get a nice finish at biceps, this sleeve is prepared by joining a separate piece of material at the bottom round, instead of keeping extra material for inturns as shown in fig 1.
sleeve cut draft This sleeve is drafted like plain sleeve with only following changes 2-0 = sleeve length plus 1.5 cm (1/2 inch) 11-10 = 1.5 cm (1/2 inch) shape 11-2 as shown

5. Plain sleeve with a centre vertical joint
palin sleeve joint As per fashion picture, a vertical joint is taken in sleeves, either for fashion or for insufficient width of material. Insertion lace, narrow frill cloth tapes, piping, separate plain or designed material, etc, used at this joint. Draft this sleeve as follows.
Joint with lace
Joint plain Cut paper pattern of diagram 2 on line 2-0, and get two pieces as shown in fig 2 Add 1 cm (1/4 inch) seam allowance at 1-2 and 3-4 and take a vertical joint of the required width (to be increased as shown at 5-6 in fig 3 Fig 4. Shows how lace or frill can be used at this joint.

6. Cape (or Cap ) sleeve
cape sleeveThis small sleeve just covers the top of arm, but does not continue under it i.e. arm It is drafted like Plain sleeve with only the following changes. 2-0 = one eight chest plus 5 to 6.5 cm (2 to 2 inch) .
Join 4-2 and shape 4-10-2 as shown.

7. . Plain Sleeve with Skirted frill at elbow
As per accompanying fashions, skirted frill is joined to the bottom of plain sleeve. For this, cut the sleeve as given on above paragraph and finish its bottom 10-2 with hem, instead of upturns. The length of sleeve should be 2 to 3 cm (3/4 to 1 inch ) less than the length of elbow .

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