Trouser or pajama cutting and Drafting
This trouser used as an indoor or outdoor garment is prepared with a casing arrangments for inserting a cloth tape or elastic. At waist . If it is to be prepared with fly button arrangement . wais round should be reduced. The bottom round of a night dress pajama or trouser should be little less compared to outdoor pajama or trouser .
Measure
1. Seat (hips) 76 cm (30”)
2. Full length 92 cm (36”)
3. Bottom 60 cm (24”) (Round foot)
Instruction for Drafting
Front:
Draw line 0-1-2 at a distance of 1.5 cm (1/2”) from selvedge
1-0 = one forth seat (hips) plus 7.5 cm (3”)
2-0 = full lenght plus 1.5 cm (1/2”)
3-1 one fourth seat (hips) plus 6.5 cm (2 ½ “)
4-0 = same as 3 to 1 . join 3-4
5-3 = one twelfth seat (hips)
6-3 = one sixth seat (hips)
7-3 = half of 5 to 3 plus 0.75 cm (1/4”) shape fork 6-7-5.
8-2 = same as 5 to 1 less 2 cm (3/4”) or half bottom
9-5 = 2 cm (3/4”) join 9-8 and shape 5-10 as shown
Back:
11-0 = one fourth seat (hips) plus 4 cm (1 ½”)
Join 9-11 and produce 3 cm (1 ¼”) to 12 join 12-0
13-5 = 4cm (1 ½”)
Shape fork 11-14-13 as shown in fig
15-8 = 2.5 cm (1”)
Shape inseam 13-15
Keep 4cm (1 ½”) above 0-4 and 0-12 for casing
Keep 5 cm (2”) Below 2-8 and 2-15 for inturns
Pocket Marks:
16-0 = 7.5 cm (3”)
17-16 = one sixth seat (hips)
Figure 3 shows the layout Trouser or pyjama . the cross lines
show the inlays and inturns
